(Kyrgyzstan) Suddenly I felt I entered into the heaven.

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My Kyrgyzstan travel started from the top of the mountain. But wait a minute! Where was an immigration? There was only Marco polo sheep welcomed.

 

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There was long downhill from the border but it was crazy steep and bumpy. I couldn’t believe that some people had to cycle on this road to go to Tajikistan, which must be extremely difficult uphill. I guessed that it must be the hardest part of whole Pamir Highway. But for me, it was downhill that I just tried to be careful to go down.

 

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I was cycling with Norwegian guy whom I met before Tajikistan border. The road was still bumpy after the steep downhill.

 

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I had to decide to push my bicycle or cycle on the river. I chose adventure and luckily I didn’t fall off.

 

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I saw the animal very often which I saw sometimes around Tajikistan border.

 

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Actually, after the border, the scenery was suddenly changed. It was more colorful and had more grass.

 

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Kyrgyzstan border was around 18 km (11mi) far from the Tajikistan border. Tajik border was at 4,200 m (13,779 ft) above sea level. But Kyrgyz border was at 3,400 m (11,154 ft). It meant altitude was suddenly changed. The scenery was beautiful that I really enjoyed.

 

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The road to a small town, Sary Tash was pretty and easy.

 

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I could guess the size of the town when I was about to close to the town. It looked very small town.

 

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But! On My Goodness!! I got shocked when I found the guesthouse.
How Come!! It was crazy nice!
The guest house did have HOT WATER!!!!!!!!!!
Toilet was on the inside of house!!!!!!!!!!!
And even they had electricity!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Finally, I ate other kinds of meat than just lamb meat!!!!
THIS IS JUST HEAVEN!!!!!!!!

There was no such a good accommodation since I left the capital of Tajikistan. There were some hotels in two cities on my way. But it was not that nice compared to this guest house.
If I counted right, I was having take shower after four days, and it was just so cozy lovely shower after 22 days in Pamir Highway.
I couldn’t believe that I could have so comfortable place in such a small village in Pamir Highway.
Just until today morning, I was taking the water from the river. But suddenly I could use water endlessly and even it was hot. I felt weird to have everything suddenly.

 

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It was the room of the guesthouse. Although the picture didn’t look nice, it was really cozy, clean, and nice. They had coal heater. The room was so hot that even I had to open the window in the middle of the night. The price was $16 included dinner and breakfast. The popular guest house thank to lonely planet in Tajikistan was $20 for the night and dinner without running water. Same price, but here I got everything.

 

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Pamir Highway was one of most beautiful places that anyone could take an amazing picture anywhere. The scenery was just in front of the guest house.

 

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Let’s start another exciting day!

 

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I needed money but the rate of exchange was really bad at a gas station in the town. But I needed only money for a few days because I could take money from ATM in a big city. Actually, I thanked that I could exchange money.

I went a grocery shop to buy emergency food and I got shocked again. They had so many different kinds of things compared to Tajikistan.

My lovely exciting morning didn’t last long because there was steep uphill waiting for me. While going up, there was a car with much luggage. It was like just circus.

 

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After uphill, yes! Yes! YES! There was amazing downhill! Another shocking thing was the road was well paved that I did enjoy so much downhill.

 

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I just realized that Grocery shop was everywhere that I didn’t need to carry emergency food lot.

 

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It was time to fill energy into my body. I was not tired of Lagman although I ate it for a few months often. Every restaurant and country had a bit different taste.

 

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The road was so smooth that I was impressed after toughest road in Tajikistan. Today was just easy day because altitude was going down.

 

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The scenery was so beautiful.

 

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I entered at Kyrgyzstan at the beginning of September. There were lots of livestock were moving by nomads. I was not sure why they were everywhere on the road. Was it for the season moving or daily route?

 

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I was curious where they headed, when they stopped, and where they slept.

If you see the picture well, you would notice that the road was covered by full of poop and pee. So there was one serious reason I must drive carefully. If I fell off, I would say literally “Oh, this is shit.”

 

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It was amazing to see so many horses, cows, sheep, and lambs moving together. Especially I really liked horse moving.

 

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Kyrgyz people looked similar to Mongolia. Compared to Tajik kid, they were more smiling that I really liked them.

 

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Tonight we decided to stay at the guest house again. It was another nice one. The owner of the guest house was so kind that she let me look around yurt at her yard.

 

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It was cleaner than Tajik Yurt where I slept. But there were a common thing that they used exactly same symbol for decorating and built as the same way.

Today we cycled from 3,400 m (11,154 ft) above sea level and we reached to 1,500 m (4,921 ft) after cycling 100 km (328 mi). So, the weather was quite warm. After having a shower, I had beer and sunflower seeds with my new cycling partner, Norwegian guy. This was just another heaven. It was because suddenly the weather was warm that I felt way more relaxed.

 

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The guest house provided big dinner and breakfast.

 

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I looked at phone’s offline map and I was guiding my cycling partner. This road was one of the parts I chose. I didn’t know that the bridge would be an old one.

 

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There were some broken parts and wider parts on the bridge. But it looked everybody using. It meant that it was enough safe to use.

 

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What lazy horses!!!! They were tired of walking that they waited for a bus!! As the laziest person, I felt them.

 

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Today there was another beautiful uphill in the morning.

 

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NO!! NO WAY!! OH MY GOODNESS!! WHO IS THIS!? YEAH! Francesco! He was one of the guys cycling together around Wakhan Valley in Tajikistan. I was really happy to see him again. He was cycling one day later than me but he caught me. He told me other guys went to China from Sary Tash. I felt kind of sad that I couldn’t see them again. But at least here I met Francesco again. He was heading to Osh to meet his parents.

Unfortunately, he had very bad flu that he coughed a lot.

 

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I was heading to Osh, the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan with Francesco and Norwegian guy. There were endlessly nomads people moving on the road that I enjoyed to share the road.  I felt like I was a nomad too like trying to find a warm place.

 

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Today the pass was about 2,400 m (7,874 ft) above sea level and we reached to 900 m (2,952 ft). The weather was really hot and the road became busy with so many cars and people. Tajikistan was a really tough place for cycling, so I was really surprised when I could take the shower with warm water and had electricity in Kyrgyzstan. I was not sure even what kind of thing I could get in Osh, the next city which was the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan. Actually, the one thing I really wanted was to have a cold beer because it was really hot day suddenly!

16 Comments
  1. The animal in your fifth picture is probably a long tailed marmot. It reminded me of the american prairie dog so I had to investigate. 🙂

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Long-tailed_marmot

  2. Very cool adventures! I love KG, spent July/August there (2017) mainly Bishkek, Issyk Kul, Karakol & down to Tash Rabat …. not on bicycle though!

  3. Thanks for the exceptional photo blog … 🙂

  4. Reply
    Kamol Hongkanjanakul February 6, 2018 at 11:08 am

    Wow….
    Very interesting place.
    Beautiful by nature not making it.
    Thanks for sharing your journey by bicycle.

  5. Love your blog & adventures ! Keep riding & writing 🙂

  6. Seems you enjoyed my home country Kyrgyzstan. Hope you visited Kara-Su(near Osh) where i am originally from. If you can share some of your pics.

  7. Loving following your trip.

  8. you are a REAL bike-hero! keep riding! thank for show the REAL world!

  9. 이 글이 2월말 기준으론 최신 글인거같습니다. 타지키스타탄에 비하면 키르키즈스탄은 진짜 천국이네요. 안라 즐라 하세요.

  10. What a terrific travel blog, what an amazing adventure! Thank you for sharing your experience!

  11. Great blog. Would you mind sharing the name of that guesthouse in Sary Tash? Im going there soon. Cheers

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