The route these days I am cycling is very different than other route. It is like the Africa which I watched on TV.
25th June 2013
The Lodge where I stayed was very comfortable that I started late around 11 am. The photo is for congratulating of 17,000 km (10,625 mi). Many times I see that the side at the road is burning, I think it is not on purpose, but just in accident.
After uphill, it is time to go downhill. Sometimes I think that it would be hard to see this kind of thing in my country, because of too many apartments and things.
Around 5 pm, I couldn’t find the best place for tent. I just walk to the house at beside the road. Around the dark, the owner of house urges to sleep at the inside. I want to sleep at the outside for more being comfortable. But she says I must sleep at the inside, because it is too dangerous. Later I give up and move to her house.
It is my first time to go into their house. There is one bed and that’s all. When I move my things to inside of home, I see rat running.
26th June 2013
The next day, I am ready to cycle.
Charcoal whose size is as my bicycle is only 10 K (2 $).
On the downhill, I hold my brake just for something.
I see the local people standing on the road. That’s why I stop and buy some fruit. I guess she stands there long time. There are not many cars on the road.
Before the sunset, I go to one of local people houses. They are pulling out corns to pound for Nshima.
The house owner has six children.
They usually got water at brook, but now they have a well. I’ve heard that to make water pump is three or four thousands dollar. But to make it was only 400 K (80 $) they said. It is 17m (55 ft) and took one week. They hired somebody. It is not hard to pull water because of the way they built.
These days it is not much cold.
This is one of typical Zambian food that groundnut and sweet potato.
27th June 2013
Charcoals are at the side. It means people live on that way. When car stops and makes a honk, the owner of house runs to come out to sell.
In the noon, it is too hot. When I take the rest, the local people start coming to me.
They just watch me.
Every day there is similar scenery
Tonight again I set up my tent at local people house. The husband of this house died. It seems many people died with leaving their many children.
Usually in the night, they make fire and talk and eat together. Around 8 pm everybody goes to the bed.
28th June 2013
It seems they are having fun as finding me.
Everyday I’ve faced their hard life.
Zambian groundnut is big. They steam it. Taste is nice. I will try when I go back home. One bag is 5K (1 $)
These days I am like the monkey on Zoo that people look at me with weird way.
These days it is not hard to find the place to set up my tent, because of many villages.
Around the sunset, everybody is busy. Today is really weird that people say I have to get permission of chief. I had bad experience in South African small village that they said the same thing that I have to get permission from chief. They treated me like criminal and tried to call to police to fetch me. Anyway after hours, they allowed me to sleep at their place. Later I found I was bitten horribly all over my body by bugs at their house, and I had pain almost for one month.
Because of bad experience at the similar situation, I try to get out of this village. After twenty minutes cycling I go to the other house. They just let me set up my tent. But they urge me to sleep at the empty house.
I got bitten terribly by some bugs at the local house when I slept at their house a few days ago, and I itch everywhere now. But this house is empty that I think it would be all right.
Around late night, one guy comes to me and says “Hey I am the head man. This is my territory. Who are you?”
Oh, I realize that I went the other village and the place I stay is another chief house. I introduce myself, and there is nothing happened.
I didn’t have any experience of this kind of chief permit in Zambia before. I think the area where I stay is very conservative.
29th June 2013
The next day, they are waiting to get water.
It is my first time to buy meat at restaurant since I left Lusaka. It is 15 K (3$). I expect more traditional food. But Nshima, vegetable and village chicken are all. Village chicken is very hard to chew. I think it means chicken enjoyed life enough?
It is local restaurant. They always provide to water to wash hands before eating. I am wondering it doesn’t matters to wash without soap.
This is the vegetable I love so much. It is my first time to have since Africa. The name is rape leaves. I think it is from Rape Flower.
When I come out from the restaurant, I see the police office. Is it closed or still working?
The more I go up in Zambia, the worse the road is. Also it is very narrow that even it is not enough for cars.
When I take the rest under the three, one local guy holding axe stops at me and greets.
Here is our conversation.
“Good morning.” He says.
“Good morning” I say.
“Give me money” He says.
“I don’t have money” I say
“Okay. Bye” He says and he keeps going his way.
Oh.. T.I.F
This is Africa.
Around noon, I take the rest again under the tree. It is very dry that if I go under the tree, I can feel cool. These days I have convulsion around the left wing skeleton. I think I am undernourished that I buy bananas. But it seems I buy too much. I think that maybe I can share it with local people when we got closed.
At that moment local people as soon as see me, they say “give me banana”. I feel weird. Have you deposited something on me? I wanted to share it as friend. But not this way.
I don’t want to feel guilt with this small thing. I just give up and give all bananas to them. Tired of this thing.
Banana is not a big thing that many local people has banana tree. I saw!
It is the fault of developed country. They had given too many things for free long time ago and made them have beggaring habit. You know the best thing is to teach how to fish, not to give cooked fish.
Around sunset, there are big family at the house where I pitch my tent. Here is the same that they make fire at night and have dinner in front of the fire. They have alcohol made of wheat by themselves. I try to taste and it is weird.
30th June 2013
In the morning, he opened the door for pigeons.
They put wheat at a bird house, and pigeons live there because of feeding. It is not for enjoyment, but for food. He says pigeon is very tasty. I ask which are better, pigeon vs chicken. He says chicken is better, but anyway pigeon is very tasty.
The child stares me fixedly.
When I am being ready to go, they stare me fixedly. Thanks to them, I slept very well. It is time to leave Zambia.
It is the last morning in Zambia. On the right people are carrying charcoals. On the left, people stare me fixedly. It is normal in Zambia that people look at me as if they look at monkey. I have cycled safely that Zambia people are enough kind. Of course many street men harass too much, because I am young Asian girl alone. I am sure if I am with local people (man), they will shut up their mouse because they are coward. Anyway, there is nothing I can do.
Last three weeks I’ve faced many poor circumstances. Maybe someone can say finally you pass typical Africa. Developed country’s people like us think it is natural we receive the benefits of civilization, and it is natural African people don’t receive the benefits of civilization as well. I saw some tourist was disappointed at one of well-developed African cities. I think it is unfair. As much as we enjoy the benefits of civilization, they will want to do as well.
I feel sorry with many ways. I hope one day I can see developed African continent.
Information
-North route
On Great north road, Kabwe is the last big city which is 140 km (87.5 mi) far from Lusaka. If you need something such as 20L water, candy or something, buy it at Kabwe or Lusaka. Of course, there are many small groceries, but there are not many things you can buy.
Mpika is on the half of the road to Tanzanian border. It is the bigger city, but nothing you can buy. Maybe cheap water? It is 20 K (4$) for 9 L water. (12 bottles of 750ml). On the Quick service at the next gas station, you can buy Nshima and vegetable for 5K (1$). Slice bread is on the cross gas station.
-Hotel
Mpika has a nice hotel which is named Bayamas. The located is on the side road at gas station. It is 70 k (14 $) for sale. Normal price is 18$. There are hot water, inside bathroom and electronic. Ten minutes from gas station, there is internet cafe. But don’t expect that it took 30 minutes to post on Facebook page. 30 minutes is 1$.
-The road condition.
It is too narrow. Some short part is under the construction. There are not many cars on the road.
-People
They are nice and kind. They love looking at you and greeting.
-Safety
I think it was okay.
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Route
Days in Zambia= 52 Days
Distance of cycling in Zambia= 1,435.78 km (897 mi)
Cities I stayed in Zambia= 22 Cities
Livingstone, Zimba, Choma, Chisekesi, some point, Kafue, Chilanga, Lusaka, Chisamba, Kabwe, Musaka Village, Mkushi, Ndala Village(Mulilima), somewhere, Catumba Village, Kapoko Village, Mpika, some village, Icasangala village, Chipunga Village, Telesye village, Some village
Expenditure in Zambia = 302 $ (1 $ = 5.3 Kwacha)
